One can feel Coorg in the air as the plains of Mysore district rise into verdant, cloud-covered hills. A small and picturesque place, the Coorg district is a land associated with pristine wilderness, cool climes, and a vibrant culture. Pandi curry, open gun ownership, and large hockey tournaments are some of the more common associations one makes with the martial race that inhabits these highlands, but there is much more to this fascinating region.
Coorg has a population of 260,000 and is home to some of the last wild areas of South India, which sit nestled next to sprawling estates and plantations. A visit to Coorg is a step back in time, where tradition is woven into the everyday lives of the people. An adventure always waits for you in Coorg, one of Karnataka’s last frontiers.
Quick Facts about Coorg District
- Main Towns – Madikeri, Virajpet
- Nearest Railway Stations – Mysore – 120 kms, Mangalore – 135 kms
- Nearest Airport – Mysore – 120 kms
People and Lifestyle
The Kodavas are the people who call Coorg District home. Owners of a proud history, the Kodavas are an ancient race and have found mentions in old Hindu texts such as the Puranas, where they were described as fierce warriors. In more recent history, the Coorg District was part of the Haleri Rajas’ kingdom. The Kodavas have a history of animosity toward the emperors Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan and have thwarted many attempts at control by the Mysore kings.
Coorg falls in between many linguistic zones, and hence, there are many languages spoken here, which include the indigenous Kodava language, Tulu, Are Bhashe, Kannada, Konkani, Urdu, and Malayalam.
Today, the Coorgis have a proud and continuous legacy of contributing to the various wings of the Indian Armed Forces. Field Marshal KM Cariappa, India’s first military commander, hails from this district. The major festivals of the Kodavas (or Coorgis) are Kailpoldu, Kaveri Sankramana, and the harvest festival – Puttari. The Kodavas have a symbiotic relationship with the forest and are traditionally fond of game hunting. Some of this translates to exotic and unique dishes, with wild boar being a favorite. The more popular culinary highlights of the Kodagu district include the world-famous pork curries of Coorg, steamed rice balls, and a spicy monsoon special, the Coorgi-style bamboo shoot curry.
Economy
Agriculture, tourism, and agroforestry are the main economic pillars of the Coorg district. The maximum of India’s coffee comes from Coorg. The coffee plantations of Coorg provide a perfect foil for a burgeoning tourist sector, with many visitors looking to experience the plantation life of these fertile hills.
Spices and timber are also mainstays of the local industry. Some of the major spices grown here include pepper and cardamom. Paddy is slowly being upstaged by other economically more viable crops, but it remains one of the main products of the region. Rosewood and sandalwood are two of the most valuable timbers found in Coorg. Kutta, a small township close to Nagarhole, is known for its handicraft industry, which uses local products.
Climate and Geography
The steamy summers of Coorg last from March to the end of May, with temperatures reaching into the thirties. The summers are followed by the rich and calming monsoons – Coorg district receives one of the highest rainfalls in India, most vigorous during the months of July and August with constant showers all the way till November.
The district is a captivating site during the monsoons, as mist envelops the higher reaches of the forests. Winters in Coorg are very mild by most standards, with temperatures sometimes dipping into single digits but usually hovering around the early to mid-teens. It usually will not get hotter than 20 degrees in the winter months of Coorg – December to February. Coorg also receives some blossom showers in March.
Coorg is a largely mountainous area, falling on the eastern slopes of the Western Ghats. The highest peaks of the district are Tadiandamol and Pushpagiri, which both top 1700 meters.
A river of cultural and economic importance, the Cauvery is the main water body in Coorg and originates in Talakaveri, its riverine influence stretching across and draining almost the entire region. The Kodagu district is wedged between the Western Ghats of Kerala in the south and southwest, and the Dakshina Kannada, Hassan, and Mysore districts of Karnataka to the north, northwest, and east.
The Wilderness and Forest
Coorg is one of the most naturally scenic and rich regions in the country and lies within one of the planet’s major biodiversity hotspots – the Western Ghats. The Nagarhole National Park in the district, which spreads over 640 sq. kms, lies in the Mysore district. An erstwhile hunting reserve, Nagarhole is home to some of the rarest species, including the tiger and the Asiatic elephant.
The Talakaveri, Brahmagiri, and Pushpagiri Wildlife Sanctuaries are also a hotbed of conservation and offer visitors the quintessential Western Ghats experience and sights.
Wildlife is part and parcel of life in the Kodagu hills. Many a conversation over rum and snacks with a local will end with a description of leopards and tigers entering estates and carrying off livestock and pets. Local wildlife also includes an abundance of wild boar, which the Coorgis love to hunt.
The Towns of Coorg
The main towns of Coorg include the district headquarters, Madikeri, the base for most excursions into the district. Virajpet is another main town, an important center for the coffee and spice economy. Tadiandamol, the highest peak in Coorg, is located near Virajpet.
Somawarpet, Kushalnagar, and Gonikoppal are also important urban centers in the district and are known as picturesque getaways for tourists. Thithimathi is a town in Coorg famous for its elephant training center.
A fascinating land of warriors, a land of predators that stalk the night, of vibrant festivals and of hunting parties, Coorg is an enigma in the modern world, nestled in the backyards of the more urbane spaces of Mysore and Bangalore. A visit to Karnataka is incomplete without experiencing the Kodava land.
